Prediction of Storm/Normal Beach Profiles

Using the results of large‐scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two‐dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter $(P=g{H}_0^2/(w^{3}T\left)\right)$ uses deep‐water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow‐water data the shallow‐water Dean number, $H_b/\left(\mathrm{wT}\right)$ can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, $w^2/\left({\mathrm{gH}}_0\right)\text{,}$ is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.