TECHNICAL PAPERS
Nov 1, 1990

Distribution of Large Wave Heights

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 116, Issue 6

Abstract

The statistical distribution of zero‐crossing wave heights is considered within the context of a previous theory proposed by the writer some years ago. The underlying model, definitions, and assumptions are reexamined systematically to develop asymptotic approximations to the probability density, exceedance probability, and statistical moments of wave heights larger than the mean wave height. The asymptotic results have closed forms, and thus are easier to use in practical applications than the original theory, which requires numerical integration. Comparisons to empirical data are given to show that the present asymptotic theory produces the observed statistics of large wave heights faithfully to within 1%. Further, comparisons with other relevant theories also reveal that if one remains true to the theoretical definitions, then the present theory is the most accurate in predicting the exceedance distribution of large wave heights. Finally, the asymptotic theory is coupled with the statistics of wave periods to derive a theoretical expression for the joint distribution of large wave heights and associated periods. The predictive utility of this last result remains to be explored.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

References

1.
Abramowitz, M., and Stegun, I. A., eds. (1965). Handbook of mathematical functions. Dover, New York, N.Y.
2.
Forristall, G. Z. (1978). “On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm.” J. Geophys. Res., 83(C5), 2353–2358.
3.
Forristall, G. Z. (1984). “The distribution of measured and simulated wave heights as a function of spectral shape.” J. Geophys. Res., 89(C6), 10547–10552.
4.
Larsen, L. H. (1981). “The influence of bandwidth on the distribution of heights of sea waves.” J. Geophys. Res., 86(C5), 4299–4301.
5.
Longuet‐Higgins, M. S. (1975). “On the distribution of the periods and amplitudes of sea waves.” J. Geophys. Res., 80(18), 2688–2694.
6.
Longuet‐Higgins, M. S. (1980). “On the distribution of the heights of the sea waves: Some effects of nonlinearity and finite bandwidth.” J. Geophys. Res., 85(3), 1519–1523.
7.
Longuet‐Higgins, M. S. (1983). “On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field.” Proc. Roy. Soc. Lond., A, 389, 241–258.
8.
Naess, A. (1985). “On the statistical distribution of crest to trough wave heights.” Ocean Engrg., 12(3), 221–234.
9.
Osborne, A. R. (1982). “The simulation and measurement of random ocean wave statistics.” Topics in ocean physics, A. R. Osborne and P. M. Rizzoli, eds., North Holland, Amsterdam, the Netherlands, 472–550.
10.
Rice, S. O. (1945). “The mathematical analysis of random noise.” Bell Syst. Tech. J., 24, 46–156.
11.
Tayfun, M. A. (1981). “Distribution of crest‐to‐trough wave heights.” J. Wtrway., Port, Coast., and Oc. Div., ASCE, 107(3), 149–158.
12.
Tayfun, M. A., and Lo, J.‐M. (1989a). “Wave envelope and related spectra.” J. Wtrway., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 115(4), 515–533.
13.
Tayfun, M. A., and Lo, J.‐M. (1989b). “Envelope, phase, and narrow‐band models of sea waves.” J. Wtrway., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 115(5), 594–613.
14.
Vinje, T. (1989). “The statistical distribution of wave heights in a random seaway.” Appl. Ocean Res., 119(3), 143–152.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 116Issue 6November 1990
Pages: 686 - 707

History

Published online: Nov 1, 1990
Published in print: Nov 1990

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

M. Aziz Tayfun, Member, ASCE
Prof., Civ. Engrg. Dept., Coll. of Engrg. and Petroleum, Kuwait Univ., P.O. Box 5969, 13060 Safat, Kuwait

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share