TECHNICAL PAPERS
May 1, 1989

Analysis of Natural Waves by Local Approximations

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 115, Issue 3

Abstract

Local approximations are recommended as a tool for the analysis of natural water waves. The particular class of local approximations described is based on local fitting of a sine curve, which leads naturally to the definition of locally defined frequencies. As a specific application, two methods are outlined for estimating surface elevations of large (nonlinear) waves from subsurface pressures. One of the methods is simple enough to be condensed into a single formula that expresses the surface elevation in terms of three pressure readings. Yet, its accuracy is better than that of the traditional spectral transfer method. Guidelines are presented for the use of the methods in connection with real (noisy) data.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

References

1.
Bishop, C. T., and Donelan, M. A. (1987). “Measuring waves with pressure transducers.” Coastal Eng., 11, 309–328.
2.
Bruun, P. (1985). Design and construction of mounds for breakwaters and coastal protection. Elsevier.
3.
Daemrich, K.‐F., Eggert, W.‐D., and Kohlhase, S. (1980). “Investigations on irregular waves in hydraulic models.” Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, Australia, 186–203.
4.
Dean, R. G. (1974). “Evaluation and development of water wave theories for engineering application.” Special Report No. 1, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center.
5.
Fenton, J. D. (1986). “Polynomial approximation and water waves.” Proc. 20th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Taipei, Taiwan, 193–207.
6.
Gabriel, D. W., and Hedges, T. S. (1986). “Effects of currents on interpretation of subsurface pressure spectra.” Coastal Eng., 10, 309–323.
7.
Nielsen, P. (1986). “Local approximations: A new way of dealing with irregular waves.” Proc. 20th Int. Conf Coastal Eng., Taipei, Taiwan, 633–646.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 115Issue 3May 1989
Pages: 384 - 396

History

Published online: May 1, 1989
Published in print: May 1989

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

Peter Nielsen
Coast and Rivers Branch, Public Works Dept., NSW, 140 Phillip St., Sydney 2000, Australia

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share