Diffraction of Waves in Caustics
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 114, Issue 6
Abstract
A model has been developed to describe wave climate in the areas of caustics where wave diffraction as well as refraction have important influences on wave propagation. Wave conditions are determined by solving the kinematic and dynamic conservation equations, which have been modified to include the effects of diffraction process. An approximate representation of nonlinear effect is also included by employing an empirical dispersion relation. The model is tested against laboratory measurements for the case of submerged circular islands on a slope, where both refraction and diffraction are equally significant, and shown to give good results.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Battjes, J. A. (1968). “Refraction of water waves.” Journal of Wtrwy. and Harbor Div., ASCE, 94(WW4), 437–451.
2.
Berkhoff, J. C. W. (1972). “Computation of combined refraction diffraction.” Proc. 13th Conference of Coastal Engrg., ASCE, 471–490.
3.
Berkhoff, J. C. W. (1982). “Verification computations with linear wave propagation motion.” Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Report No. W 154‐VIII, Delft Hydr. Lab.
4.
Berkhoff, J. C. W., Booij, N., and Radder, A. C. (1982). “Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves.” Coastal Eng. 6, 255–279.
5.
Bouws, E., and Battjes, J. A. (1982). “A Monte Carlo approach to the computation of refraction of water waves.” J. Geophys. Res. 87(C8), 5718–5722.
6.
Dean, R. G., and Dalrymple, R. A. (1984). Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists. Prentice‐Hall Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J., 93–104.
7.
Ebersole, B. A. (1985). “Refraction‐diffraction model for linear water waves.” J. Wtrway., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 111(6), 939–953.
8.
Hedges, T. S. (1976). “An empirical modification to linear wave theory.” Proc., Institute of Civil Engineers, 61, 575–579.
9.
Ippen, A. T. (1966). Estuary and coastline hydrodynamics, McGraw‐Hill Book Co., Inc., New York, N.Y., 49–59.
10.
Ito, Y. and Tanimoto, K. (1972). “A method of numerical analysis of wave propagation—Application of wave refraction and diffraction.” Proc. 13th Conference of Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 503–522.
11.
Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A. (1984). “Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly nonlinear waves.” Coastal Eng., 8, 219–232.
12.
Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A. (1986). “An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models.” Coastal Eng. 9, 545–561.
13.
Larsen, J. (1978). “A harbour theory for wind‐generated waves based on ray methods.” J. Fluid Mech. 87, 143–158.
14.
Munk, W. H., and Traylor, M. A. (1947). “Refraction of ocean waves.” Journal of Geology, 55, 1–26.
15.
Phillips, O. M. (1977). Dynamics of the upper ocean. 2nd Ed., Cambridge University Press, 59–66.
16.
Radder, A. C. (1979). “On the parabolic equation method for water wave propagation.” J. Fluid Mech. 95(1), 159–176.
17.
Southgate, H. N. (1985). “A harbor ray model of wave refraction‐diffraction.” J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg. 111(WW1), 29–44.
18.
Stoker, J. J. (1957). Water Waves. Interscience Publishers, Inc., New York, N.Y., 53.
19.
Yoo, D. (1986). “Mathematical modelling of wave‐current interacted flow in shallow waters,” thesis presented to the University of Manchester, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy.
20.
Yoo, D. and O'Connor, B. A. (1986). “Mathematical modelling of wave‐induced nearshore circulations.” Proc. 20th Int. Conference on Coastal Engrg., ASCE, 2, 1667–1681.
21.
Yoo, D., and O'Connor, B. A. (1986). “Ray model for caustic gravity waves.” Proc. 5th Conference of Asian and Pacific Division of IAHR, 3, 1–13.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 114 • Issue 6 • November 1988
Pages: 715 - 731
Copyright
Copyright © 1988 ASCE.
History
Published online: Nov 1, 1988
Published in print: Nov 1988
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.