Shallow‐Water Waves. II: Data Comparisons
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 114, Issue 1
Abstract
Predicted spectral shapes, based on the theory derived in Part I (Resio 1987), appear to agree well with those measured under storm conditions. The results of this paper indicate that, under such conditions, a dynamic balance between wind input and nonlinear fluxes dominates the shape of a spectrum and via this balance also controls the total energy level and related energy losses in waves propagating into shallow water, even into depths less than 33 ft (10 m). The nonlinear flux estimates derived here also provide a quantitative means of evaluating energy losses, even in nonequilibrium conditions. This ability to quantify energy losses due to nonlinear fluxes will be particularly important in modeling waves in complex bathymetries, or in situations of mixed sea‐swell, or when wave generation is taking place at very oblique angles to the coast, and in very shallow water where the nonlinear fluxes can no longer maintain an equilibrium.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 114 • Issue 1 • January 1988
Pages: 50 - 65
Copyright
Copyright © 1988 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jan 1, 1988
Published in print: Jan 1988
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