Transformation of Significant Wave Heights
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 113, Issue 6
Abstract
A formula for transforming significant wave heights of wind seas between locations of differing depths is developed from the concept of the equilibrium range in the spectrum. The transformation is assumed valid for single‐peaked equilibrium wind seas which do not contain swell components. The method does not account for the effects of refraction, diffraction, or situations which may be fetch‐ or duration‐limited, therefore the method should not be applied when these effects may be dominant. The transformation is tested using 198 data pairs which seemed to fit the necessary criteria. The significant wave height at the shallower gage (8 m depth) was predicted using the measured significant wave height at the deeper gage (18 m depth). Comparisons between predicted and measured significant wave heights indicate that the wind sea transformation generally performs better than unrefracted shoaling of significant wave height using linear theory, but that underprediction occurs at longer wave periods.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Birkemeier, W. A., et al. (1985). “A user's guide to the coastal engineering research center's (CERC's) field research facility.” Instruction Report CERC‐85‐1, U.S. Army Engr. Wtrways. Experiment Station, Coast. Engrg. Res. Ctr., Vicksburg, Miss.
2.
Bouws, E., et al. (1985). “Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water, part I—spectral form.” J. Geophys. Res., 90(C1), 975–986.
3.
Guza, R. T., and Thornton, E. B. (1980). “Local and shoaled comparisons of sea surface elevations, pressures, and velocities.” J. Geophys. Res., 85(C3), 1524–1530.
4.
Hasselmann, K., et al. (1973). “Measurements of wind wave growth and swell decay during the joint sea wave project (JONSWAP).” Report No. 12, Deuthshes Hydrographisches Institut, Hamburg, West Germany.
5.
Hughes, S. A. (1984). “The TMA shallow‐water spectrum description and applications.” Technical Report CERC‐84‐7, U.S. Army Engr. Wtrways. Experiment Station, Coast. Engrg. Res. Ctr., Vicksburg, Miss.
6.
Kitaigoradskii, S. A., et al. (1975). “On Phillip's theory of equilibrium range in the spectra of wind‐generated gravity waves.” J. Phys. Oceanography, 5(3), 910–920.
7.
Kitaigoradskii, S. A. (1983). “On the theory of the equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind‐generated gravity waves.” J. Phys. Oceanography, 13(5), 816–827.
8.
Thompson, E. F., and Vincent, C. L. (1985). “Significant wave height for shallow water design.” J. Wtrway., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 111(5), 828–842.
9.
Vincent, C. L. (1984). “Shallow water waves: a spectral approach.” Proc. Nineteenth Int. Conf. on Coast. Engrg., ASCE, pp. 370–382.
10.
Vincent, C. L. (in revision). “Shallow water wave spectra.” submitted to the J. Phys. Oceanography.
11.
Vincent, C. L., and Hughes, S. A. (1985). “A note on wind wave growth in shallow water.” J. Wtrway., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 111(4), 765–770.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 113 • Issue 6 • November 1987
Pages: 588 - 605
Copyright
Copyright © 1987 ASCE.
History
Published online: Nov 1, 1987
Published in print: Nov 1987
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.