Wave Numbers of Linear Progressive Waves
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 112, Issue 4
Abstract
An explicit solution for wave number and wave speed is derived. The method of solution is to expand the linear wave dispersion relation in Taylor series in the neighborhoods of deep and shallow water limits. The two series are matched at the inflection point of the dispersion function, where the shoaling wave height is a minimum value. Numerical comparisons indicate that the present solution is computationally efficient and has an error of less than 0.05%. Two applications are made to solve problems, involving nearshore spectral analysis and refraction of ocean waves.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Dean, R. G., and Dalrymple, R. A. (1984). Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, Prentice‐Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J.
2.
Hunt, J. N. (1979). “Direct Solution of Wave Dispersion Equation,” J. Waterways, Ports, Coastal, and Ocean Div., ASCE, Vol. 105, No. WW4, Nov., pp. 457–459.
3.
Longuet‐Higgins, M. S. (1972). “The Mechanics of the Surf Zone,” Proceedings of the 13th International Congress of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics, Aug., pp. 213–228.
4.
Mei, C. C. (1983). The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, John Wiley & Sons, New York, N.Y., p. 12.
5.
Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical Engineering, Prentice‐Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J., p. 17.
6.
Wu, C. S., Thornton, E. B., and Guza, R. T. (1985). “Waves and Longshore Currents: Comparison of a Numerical Model with Field Data,” J. of Geophysical Research, Vol. 90, No. C3, May, pp. 4951–4958.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 112 • Issue 4 • July 1986
Pages: 536 - 540
Copyright
Copyright © 1986 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1986
Published in print: Jul 1986
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.