Wind Wave Growth in Shallow Water
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 111, Issue 4
Abstract
New developments in the area of shallow water wave spectra have aided in the derivation of an equation for the limiting wave height in the case of fully saturated wind seas in shallow water. The result is very similar to the empirically derived expression obtained by Bretschneider in 1958. Starting with an equation for the depth controlled zero moment wave height in terms of depth, Phillip's coefficient, and the wave period associated with the peak spectral frequency, the result is obtained using a recently developed empirical experssion for the Phillip's coefficient and a method for specifying the peak spectral frequency at full development in shallow water. The good comparison to Bretschneider's result is satisfying in that further validity is added to the basic equation used in the derivation and to the newer developments in shallow water spectral representations.
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References
1.
Bouws, E., Gunther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent, C. L., “Similarity of the Wind Wave Spectrum in Finite Depth Water,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 90, No. C1, 1985, pp. 975–986.
2.
Bouws, E., Gunther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent, C. L., “A Similarity Based Spectral Form for Finite Depth Water: Wave Growth Relationships for the Finite Depth TMA Spectral Form,” International Association for Hydraulic Research, presented in Moscow, 1983.
3.
Bretschneider, C. L., “Revisions in Wave Forecasting: Deep and Shallow Water,” Proceedings of the 6th Conference on Coastal Engineers, ASCE, 1958, pp. 30–67.
4.
Kitaigorodskii, S. A., Krasitskii, V. P., and Zaslavskii, M. M., “On Phillips Theory of Equilibrium Range in the Spectra of Wind‐Generated Gravity Waves,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 5, 1975, pp. 410–420.
5.
Phillips, O. M., “The Equilibrium Range in the Spectrum of Wind‐Generated Ocean Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 4, 1958, pp. 426–434.
6.
Pierson, W. J., and Moskowitz, L., “A Proposed Spectral Form for Fully Developed Windseas Based on the Similarity Theory of S. A. Kitaigorodskii,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 69, 1964, pp. 5181–5190.
7.
Vincent, C. L., “Depth Controlled Wave Height,” Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Division, ASCE, Vol. 111, No. 3, 1985.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 111 • Issue 4 • January 1985
Pages: 765 - 770
Copyright
Copyright © 1985 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jan 1, 1985
Published in print: Jan 1985
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