TECHNICAL PAPERS
Jan 1, 1985

Numerical Study of Finite Amplitude Wave Refraction

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 111, Issue 1

Abstract

Water wave refraction for monochromatic waves is considered in order to examine finite amplitude wave effects using Stokes wave theory with the assumption that a locally flat bottom exists. The ray trajectories and refraction coefficients obtained by using the first and the third order wave theory including and excluding energy dissipation are compared for various topographies. Also, some results from various bottoms of constant slope are summarized at the depth near the wave breaking point for the practical use of this model. Third order theory including energy dissipation seems to produce significant differences on the final results of the refraction calculation.

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 111Issue 1January 1985
Pages: 78 - 95

History

Published online: Jan 1, 1985
Published in print: Jan 1985

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Authors

Affiliations

Im Sang Oh
Physical Oceanographer, Hawaii Inst. of Geophysics and Dept. of Oceanography, Univ. of Hawaii, Honolulu, Hawaii 96822; formerly, Grad. Student, Dept. of Oceanography, Old Dominion Univ., Norfolk, Va. 23508
Chester E. Grosch
Prof., Dept. of Oceanography, Old Dominion Univ., Norfork, Va. 23508

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