TECHNICAL PAPERS
Feb 1, 1983

Wave Data Discretization for Shore Line Processes

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 109, Issue 1

Abstract

The use of synoptic atlases of wave climatologies for determining shore line evolution is examined critically. It is concluded that the fineness of discretization of wave height is not too important, as long as energy is conserved, but a fine discretization of wave angle is needed. Due to importance of order of sequential wave events or time history of the wave input, a Monte Carlo simulation of the wave climatology is proposed to determine shore line location probabilistically instead of deterministically.

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References

1.
Jonsson, I. G., “Wave Boundary Layers and Friction Factors,” Proceedings of the 10th Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Vol. I, 1966, pp. 127–148.
2.
Le Mehaute, B., and Soldate, M., “A Numerical Model for Predicting Shore Line Changes,” Miscellaneous Report, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, CERC, Forst Belvoir, Va. 22060, 1980.
3.
Pelnard‐Considere, R., “Essai de Theorie de l'Evolution des Forms de Rivage en Plages de Sable at de Galets,” 4th Journess de l'Hydraulique, les Energies de la Mer, Questi III, Rapport No. 1, 1956.
4.
Shore Protection Manual, 3 Volumes, CERC, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Vol. I, Fort. Belvoir, Va. 22060, 1975.
5.
“Sediment Transportation Mechanics: Initiation of Motion,” Task Committee on Sedimentation, Journal of the Hydraulics Division, ASCE, Vol. 92, No. HY2, Mar., 1966, pp. 291–315.
6.
Summary of Synoptic Meteorological Observations, U.S. Naval Weather Service Command, Vol. 3.
7.
Walton, T. L., and Chiu, T. Y., “Littoral Sand Transport on Beaches,” University of Florida, 1976.
8.
Wang, J. D., and Le Mehaute, B., “Criterion for Stability of Shore Line Plan‐form,” Proceedings of the 17th Conference Coastal Engineering, Sidney, Australia, 1980a.
9.
Wang, J. D., and Le Mehaute, B., “Breaking‐Wave Characteristics on a Plane Beach,” Coastal Engineering, Vol. 4, 1980b, pp. 137–149.

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 109Issue 1February 1983
Pages: 63 - 78

History

Published online: Feb 1, 1983
Published in print: Feb 1983

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Authors

Affiliations

Bernard Le Mehaute
Prof., Dept. of Ocean Engrg., Univ. of Miami, Miami, Fla. 33149
John D. Wang
Assoc. Prof., Dept. of Ocean Engrg., Univ. of Miami, Miami, Fla. 33149
Chia‐Chi Lu
Grad. Student, Dept. of Ocean Engrg., Univ. of Miami, Miami, Fla. 33149

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