Using Finite-Element Method to Simulate Wave Transformations in Surf Zone
Publication: Journal of Engineering Mechanics
Volume 131, Issue 11
Abstract
In this study, a finite element method proposed by Hsu et al. in 2003 is extended to develop a numerical model for the simulation of wave transformation in the surf zone. The governing equation is the elliptic mild-slope equation including the energy dissipation of wave breaking. At the open boundaries with varying depth, the reflected waves caused by shoaling are adopted to the radiation boundary conditions. The rationality of the present numerical model is examined through the cases of offshore parallel breakwater problems. The results of calculation are in good agreement with experimental results.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
Acknowledgments
This study was financially supported by National Science Council, Ministry of Education and Water Resources Agency, Ministry of Economic Affairs, Taiwan, under Grant Numbers NSC90-2611-E006-004, H92-A911, and MOEA/WRB/ST-910002V3.
References
Booij, N. (1981). “Gravity waves on water with non-uniform depth and current.” Rep. No. 81-1, Dept. of Civil Engineering, Delft Univ. of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands.
Dally, W. R., Dean, R. G., and Dalrymple, R. A. (1985). “Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile.” J. Geophys. Res., [Oceans], 90(C6), 11917–11927.
Givoli, D., and Keller, J. B. (1994). “Special finite elements for use with high-order boundary conditions.” Comput. Methods Appl. Mech. Eng., 119(3-4), 199–213.
Goda, Y. (1975). “Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone.” Coast. Eng. Japan, 18, 13–26.
Hsu, T. W., Lan, Y. J., Tsay, T. K., and Lin, K. P. (2003). “Second-order radiation boundary condition for water wave simulation with large angle incidence.” J. Eng. Mech., 129(12), 1429–1438.
Hsu, T. W., and Wen, C. C. (2001). “A parabolic equation extended to account for rapidly varying topography.” Ocean Eng., 28(11), 1479–1498.
Isaacson, M., and Qu, S. (1990). “Waves in a harbour with partially reflection boundaries.” Coastal Eng., 14, 193–214.
Isobe, M. (1987). “A parabolic equation model for transformation of irregular waves due to refraction, diffraction and breaking.” Coast. Eng. Japan, 30, 33–47.
Lé Méhauté, B., and Koh, R. C. Y. (1967). “On the breaking of waves arriving at an angle to the shore.” J. Hydraul. Res., 5(1), 67–88.
Ou, S. H., Tzang, S. Y., and Hsu, T. W. (1988). “Wave field behind the permeable detached breakwater.” Proc., 21st Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, Malaga, 659–714.
Panchang, V., Chen, W., Xu, B., Schlenker, K., Demirbilek, Z., and Okihiro, M. (2000). “Exterior bathymetric effects in elliptic harbor wave models.” J. Waterw., Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 126(2), 71–78.
Watanabe, A., and Maruyama, K. (1986). “Numerical modeling of nearshore wave field under combined refraction, diffraction and breaking.” Coast. Eng. Japan, 29, 19–39.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Engineering Mechanics
Volume 131 • Issue 11 • November 2005
Pages: 1214 - 1217
Copyright
© 2005 ASCE.
History
Received: Aug 21, 2003
Accepted: Feb 1, 2005
Published online: Nov 1, 2005
Published in print: Nov 2005
Notes
Note. Associate Editor: Francisco Armero
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.